Stuttgart Travels

I have to admit that our time in Europe has been more challenging than our previous travels. When we were in Korea and Japan last year, Kiddo was only ten months old and far less wriggly or opinionated. We could pop her in the stroller and tool around temples and museums without worrying about her little pair of legs trying to make a break for it. These days, while J is at work, I'm trying to balance seeing the sights with finding places for Kiddo to run around. We are fortunate to be visiting Germany during the Christmas season -- which I consider to be the best time of year -- because I love Christmas markets, but this also means that the streets and shops are packed with tourists and locals. Luckily, the markets are less crowded during the day and I can let Baby run free in some of the squares. We've also visited the Wilhelma Zoo twice, the Killesberg Park twice, and the Frankfurt Zoo once. Not my usual choice of haunts to visit in a foreign country, but Kiddo was pretty thrilled to see the animals and climb around, and happy baby = happy mama.

Our trip began with the car service showing up at 6am for our early flight out of Heathrow. Upon entering the international terminal, I was pretty excited to see a fast food sushi on a conveyor belt restaurant that was open even at such an early hour. I can't remember the last time I had decent sushi and have been missing Domo something fierce. I ate a breakfast of miso soup and raw salmon while Kiddo slurped down seaweed and udon noodles like a champ. She's always been a good eater, though her mother also may have started her on some interesting flavors and textures at an early age (fish roe, anyone?).

With lighting like this and an assortment of sushi to choose from, how could we not eat there?

Udon noodle soup and seaweed for breakfast

To stave off impending hunger, we also grabbed a second breakfast from Leon, a "fast food" café of healthy food. Leon has become my go to when traveling through Heathrow (and made me realize how American airports have set the new low for food). Their blueberry kefir (Baby's favorite), oatmeal, and fresh carrot and orange juices are amazing.

After landing at Frankfurt, we trained down to Stuttgart and checked into the Hotel am Fuersee, which is walking distance from downtown and also happens to be across the street from a beautiful church and duck pond. I'd forgotten how much I love living in walkable cities with good public transportation. The sense of freedom I derive from being able to walk everywhere is exhilarating. The only downside is that Kiddo much prefers to walk (or run) and coaxing her into the stroller for longer distances can be a challenge.

View of Johanneskirche (St. John's Church) from our hotel window

Johanneskirche in golden hour

Kiddo and I spent our first day in Stuttgart exploring downtown and, of course, the Christmas markets.  Once J got off from work, we returned to the Christmas market again in the evening, when the crowds are larger and more festive and lively on gluwein. I managed to eat all of my favorite foods, including spaetzle and flammkuchen, an Alsatian style "pizza" topped with crème fraîche, onions, and bacon.

Christmas market in downtown Stuttgart

Kiddo LOVES trains. We watched this amazing model train set for an hour, despite the bitter cold,

and returned to this exact spot at least four or five times during the rest of the week.

View of the Christmas market and Konigsbau Building from the Schlossplatz

The base of the Jubilaumssaule Pillar in the middle of the Schlossplatz

Fountain with the Neues Schloss in the background -- Kiddo made me run around
the fountain at least twenty times

Christmas market at night

Back to the model train set, with the Schlossplatz in the background

The food here is amazing. In addition to our favorite Christmas market fare, we've also eaten some amazing Turkish, Thai, and Korean food. My favorite dining experience though took place at Stuttgarter Stäffele, a restaurant that specializes in traditional Baden cuisine. We couldn't understand most of the non-English menu, but I ordered sweetbreads (organ meats from the thymus gland and pancreas) in Calvados sauce and Jason ordered the roast goose, followed by apple strudel for dessert. I suppose I should mention that J's favorite culinary experience has probably been all of the German beer he has missed since leaving K-town five years ago.

Christmas decorations at Stuttgarter Stäffele

Kiddo eating sweetbreads

We're now in Frankfurt because J needed to fly back to the States for 24 hours (long story) while Kiddo and I kept busy by going to the zoo and exploring the Christmas markets with an old friend. I am so sad to be leaving for England tomorrow as there is much more to see and so much about Germany that I love, but all good things must come to an end, I suppose. And of course, many new good things (and travels) are lurking just around the corner.

Frankfurt train station

Frankfurt Christmas market with Alte Nikolaikirche in the background