A Yorkshire Christmas

J's love of the James Herriot veterinary novels (I'd only read the first book in the series as a child) and the famed beauty of the Yorkshire Dales led us to take a trip to the county of Yorkshire over the holidays. After J came home from work, we loaded up the car and drove to Harrogate on Christmas Eve, making a detour to the ruins of Sandal Castle, a medieval motte and bailey castle constructed in the 12th century. Sandal Castle, now located incongruously in the middle of the suburbs (can you imagine having 12th century ruins across the street from your house?), has long been in disrepair and much of the ruins was inaccessible due to safety issues. Still, what remained of the castle was impressive. The weather was windy and freezing, but that didn't stop Kiddo from splashing in muddy puddles on the pathways. It's her new favorite thing to do, à la Peppa Pig.

We arrived in Harrogate fairly late in the evening. Harrogate has been a spa town since the 17th century and continues to be vibrant and prosperous (read: some of the highest property values in England). I would totally live there forever. It is such a beautiful town with tons of shops and great restaurants. There are several British military bases in the area, so it's not impossible...

The Crown Hotel, located in the center of Harrogate, which we made our home base for several days

We happened to walk by a fancy looking Chinese restaurant and ended up eating Christmas Eve dinner of Peking duck and some of my other favorite foods. The restaurant, which was located in a beautiful old bath house and was one of the most upscale Chinese restaurants I've been in, thankfully was able to seat us without a reservation, as the place was packed.

We set out for the Yorkshire Dales early Christmas morning, having done presents the previous day. Though the sky was overcast for much of the drive, the clouds parted by the time we reached the Bolton Abbey Estate.

Yorkshire countryside

Shops on the Bolton Abbey Estate

Walking toward the Bolton Priory

The Bolton Priory is a 12th century Augustinian monastery that sits on the 33,000 acre estate. The ruins were nothing short of stunning in the morning sunlight and dew. I've only included a few of the zillion photos I took so as to not bore you.

Bolton Priory

We stayed at the estate for a few hours before driving on through the countryside and making a stop for lunch in the town of Skipton. All of the pubs were open on Christmas morning but it turned out that no one was serving food, only liquor. After a liquid lunch of beer for J and mulled wine for me, we managed to survive on oranges and granola bars while exploring the Dales and made it back to Harrogate for dinner.

Holy Trinity Church in the town of Skipton

Skipton

Driving through the Dales

After our first day in Yorkshire, I didn't think it'd be possible to find any ruins more beautiful or awe inspiring than the Bolton Priory. I was wrong. Fountains Abbey, a Cistercian monastery founded in 1132, proved to be even more spectacular. Let's just say that I spent a lot of time there (and in the gift shop -- steep after Christmas discounts on rustic ornaments and handwoven wool blankets)...much more time than J or Kiddo had anticipated. What can I say? I found my happy place.

Fountains Abbey

We spent the remainder of the day exploring the Dales and admiring the greenery and sheep before heading back to Harrogate and eating Cuban food for dinner.

J attempting to cross the road

We spent our final morning in Yorkshire eating the most delicious breakfast at Bettys Cafe Tearoom, a Harrogate establishment that dates back to 1919. Everything was so delightfully English. J gets the English (or Irish) breakfast whenever it's available, but though I do love black pudding (blood sausage), I have to go for the scones and clotted cream. I absolutely love teatime and wish it were more common in the States. Bettys also has wonderful pastries, breads, and teas available for purchase -- J thinks I bought nearly half the store to bring home.

We did finally make it to Thirsk -- the town in which James Herriot had his veterinary practice -- before driving home to Kimbolton. All in all, a delightful Christmas journey that I'll hold near and dear to my heart for many years to come.

St.  Mary's Church, in the town of Thirsk